Shoestring Traveler

Budget Travel Oregon: Clear Lake and Ikenick Sno-Park

2011-03-04T21:27:00.000-08:00

Winter lasts a long time in Oregon, and once the snow level drops, many of the hikes in the Cascades are inaccessible. One option to satisfy your urge for an adventure is to embrace the weather, rather than trying to beat it. Strap on a pair of snowshoes and find a nearby trail that has been transformed into a brilliant winter landscape.

Ikenick (Isaac Nickerson) Sno-Park is open to a variety of winter recreation activities

Clear Lake On the McKenzie River Highway approximately 1.5 hours from Eugene, OR, Clear Lake is an excellent candidate for this treatment. In the summer, it is a bone-chillingly cold spring-fed lake with an easy seven-mile hike around its shore. While its deep blue (at times almost violet) water might seem to invite a quick dip, the temperature hovers slightly above freezing all year, and remains pristine due to a prohibition against motorized watercraft.

A rather rainy but otherwise enjoyable trip to the shore of Clear Lake

In winter, however, many feet of snow cover the forest around the lake, and much of the lake itself freezes over. While the rustic Clear Lake Resort at the lake's edge is still open for the season, the south access road at Cold Water Cove (1) from Highway 126 to the lake shore goes unplowed during heavy snowfall. A wide turn-out on Highway 126 at the mouth of this access road, created by snowplows turning around, makes for a good spot to park. Once you don a pair of snowshoes, the wide path and lack of elevation change on the access road makes it the perfect way to reach the southern lake shore.

Ikenick Sno-Park A snow park that receives light use during the winter, the Ikenick Sno-Park is open to cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiles. Located a mile north of the first Clear Lake turn off (2), the snow park is an excellent option for those who are looking for exercise and an already broken trail.

Getting There Take Highway 126 leaving from Springfield/Eugene. Approximately 65 miles from Springfield, you will see the Cold Water Cove turn off on your right. While in inclement weather this road goes unplowed, a wide turn-out from the area's snowplows will have cleared a parking area alongside Highway 126. The Ikenick Sno-Park is approximately 1 mile further along Highway 126 past Cold Water Cove.

Budget Travel Seattle: Top 5 Gourmet Meals on a Budget

2011-01-25T10:11:00.000-08:00

Everyone who knows my friend Josh Deutsch knows that he's a fantastic trumpet player and composer, as well as an excellent chef and food writer. Josh leads a bi-coastal life, splitting his time between NYC and Seattle (with a healthy dose of touring thrown in the mix), and we got him to write about some of his favorite meals from his hometown. To visit Josh's website and learn more, click here.

Josh writes: "Growing up in Seattle was a critical part of my early interest in great food. I remember going out for Pho with friends on lunch breaks in high school, cracking fresh Dungeness crabs with my dad, and discovering the joys of sushi. Over the last 10 years, having Seattle as a second home means that I look forward to certain dishes that I can’t get anywhere else. Here are some of my must-try dishes for Seattle, some of which I’ve been eating since childhood, others of which are new discoveries in the last few years."

Grilled Pork Sandwich

1. Grilled Pork Sandwich (the #1) from Paseo. Not a particularly original choice, as evidenced by the constant lines down the block, but this is one hell of a sandwich – great quality crusty baguette with an unbelievably flavorful grilled marinated pork loin, pickled jalapenos, mayo, grilled onions, and lettuce. There’s no way to eat this sandwich without a.) the sandwich falling apart and winding up all over your face and clothes, or b.) announcing every time you take a bite that it’s the best thing you’ve ever put in your face. Not the cheapest sandwich, but $9 very, very well spent. (4225 Fremont Ave N. http://www.paseoseattle.com)

Torched Salmon Nigiri

2. Torched Salmon Nigiri from Tsukushinbo. Every time I approach a trip back to Seattle, I start thinking about salmon…and my favorite place for a salmon fix is Tsukushinbo. This is a little hole-in-the-wall sushi joint on the edge of the International District. The first few times I went were with my friend Andrew, who lives right around the corner and has gotten to know the sushi chef. This salmon preparation isn’t listed on the menu, but if you request it, the chef will torch the Salmon Nigiri with a blowtorch, and add a squeeze of lemon and sea salt. At $3.50 for 2 pieces, this is a bargain! (515 South Main Street)

Cold Meat Plate

3. Cold Meat Plate at Salumi. There’s not much I can add here – this place is well documented by foodies around the world, but that doesn’t make it any less incredible. Only open Monday-Thursday from 11 a.m.-3 p.m., be prepared to wait up to an hour to get in and take one of the dozen or so seats inside. Everything on the menu is phenomenal, but the Cold Meat Plate with olives and cheese is the best way to hit the highlights. If you’re with a friend, add the Hot Meat Plate too, which includes the best meatballs I’ve ever tried. The Cold Meat Plate changes with whatever cured meats they have on hand at the time, but usually includes my all time favorite, their Mole Salami. Warning: this stuff will ruin all other generic salami for the rest of your life. [N.B. It's true!] (309 3rd Avenue South http://www.salumicuredmeats.com)

4. Scallion Pancake & Homemade Noodles at Judy Foo’s Snappy Dragon. Snappy Dragon has been around a long time, and is an unexpected source of excellent authentic Chinese food in the very residential Maple Leaf neighborhood of Northeast Seattle. The highlights for me are the hand-shaved noodles in the Chow Mein, as well as an unbelievably crispy and flavorful Scallion Pancake. I crave these dishes year-round….(8917 Roosevelt Way Northeast http://www.snappydragon.com)

Li'l Smokies

5. Li'l Smokies (Onion Rings) at the Jolly Roger Taproom (Maritime Brewery). What a genius idea – smoke the onions before breading and frying. The resulting onion rings barely nudge out the rings from Red Mill Burgers (another must-try Seattle spot) as the best onion rings I’ve tried. Don’t forget a pint of Jolly Roger (Maritime’s Winter Seasonal).

(1111 N.W. Ballard Way http://maritimebrewery.ypguides.net)

Budget Travel Vancouver, BC: Chinatown

2010-12-31T13:13:00.000-08:00

Millennium Gate

Poised at the western edge of North America, the city of Vancouver, British Columbia is more a part of the wider Pacific Rim region and less a part of east- and southward-looking Canada. Vancouver shares with other watery west coast port cities like Seattle and Portland such characteristics as a high "livability" rating, eco-conscious city planning, early roots in the timber industry, and even climate. Yet it differs from the American cities in that Canada's more lenient immigration policies have encouraged greater growth in certain immigrant populations, leading to an overall greater ethnic diversity than either Seattle or Portland. In part because of this, Vancouver is a cosmopolitan, diverse, and affluent city with much to offer to both its visitors and its residents.

Chinatown Recent waves of immigration, fueled partly in the '80s and '90s by the transfer of Hong Kong from Britain to China, have included residents of Hong Kong, mainland China, Taiwan, Korea, Vietnam, India, the Philippines, Indonesia, Cambodia, and Japan. Vancouver has one of the largest populations of ethnic Chinese in North America; this, coupled with Vancouver's Chinatown being one of the largest and oldest in North America, makes for a vibrant Chinese community in downtown Vancouver.

A walk down Pender Street from downtown Vancouver is one of the best ways to explore Chinatown. Millennium Gate, the entrance to Chinatown, stands at the intersection of Taylor and Pender Street. One block further along Pender Street resides the Sam Kee Building and the nearby Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. Tea and herb shops and grocery stores display their wares on the sidewalk, and a multitude of shopping and dining options, including dim sum and other traditional fare, are located along Pender, Hastings, and Main Street. Banks, real estate offices, and other services present in Chinatown are a testament to the fact that the neighborhood is not a tourist destination, but a living, working community.

For more information about Chinatown, visit the Vancouver Chinatown Website (click here).

Pho Le For fresh, affordable Vietnamese fare in a clean, no-frills restaurant, head to Pho Le on Main Street near the intersection of Keefer. The restaurant is upstairs with a pleasant view of Chinatown, and features an extensive menu with nearly 100 entries. Open 7 days a week. (#220-633 Main Street, Chinatown, click here for the Pho Le website)

Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden Built in 1985, the Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden is the first classical Chinese garden outside of China. Its walled compound houses a serene landscape of water, plants, and man-made structures, and with a small admission fee is open to the public year-round. (578 Carrall Street, click here for the Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden website)

The Sam Kee Building is only 1.5 meters thick at its base

Sam Kee Building Holding a Guinness Book world record for the shallowest commercial building in the world, the Sam Kee Building was constructed in 1913 after the city of Vancouver took all but 2 meters of the original owner's land. The owner, Chang Toy, hired an architect to build the two-story structure with a width of only 1.5 meters (approximately 4'11"), prompting a later inclusion in the Guinness Book of World Records, and attracting Ripley's Believe It or Not fame. The building features significant overhanging bay windows in the second floor, and a basement lighted by the only remaining glass window sidewalk in Chinatown. Once housing the only hot baths in Chinatown, and linked to an escape tunnel for a nearby opium den, the history of the Sam Kee building is as rich as that of Chinatown itself. (8 West Pender Street)

Maximizing its square footage with overhanging bay windows and a basement that once expanded below the sidewalk, the Sam Kee Building makes the most of limited space.

Budget Travel San Francisco: Dining, Shopping, and Things To Do

2010-09-18T21:56:00.000-07:00

The Japanese Tea Garden, inside Golden Gate Park, is the oldest public Japanese garden in the United States.

Coach Sushi With a pleasant location right on the promenade around Lake Merritt in nearby Oakland, Coach Sushi (532 Grand Ave, Oakland) features an excellent assortment of sushi rolls and other Japanese fare. But for many (including our good friend Josh, who lives right around the corner), its main attraction is the $3.50 bottomless sake provided by the exuberant host and restaurant's namesake. The sake here is served in the traditional Japanese masu, a box made out of Japanese cypress, and flavored with a pinch of sea salt on the rim. Bring friends and plan on enjoying yourself; phone numbers of the area's taxi services are prominently displayed should you need their assistance getting home.

Union Square If you're in the mood for shopping, skip the expensive parking and tourist trap atmosphere of Pier 39 and Ghirardelli Square, and instead head to downtown San Francisco and visit Union Square. Dating from 1850 and named after rallies in support of the Union Army during the Civil War, Union Square today is a West Coast shopping mecca. The square and surrounding blocks are home to dozens of upscale boutiques (Hermes, Chanel, Burberry, Celine), department stores (Barneys, Bloomingdales, Neiman Marcus), fast fashion purveyors (Forever 21, Zara, Urban Outfitters), and many places to dine. In addition, the square features a multitude of art galleries and several theaters. For more information on shopping, see Union Square shopping. For more information on live theater in San Francisco, and to see what's currently showing, visit San Francisco Theater.

The Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park is small and often crowded, but has its charm all the same. On Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, admission to this attraction is free if entered by 10:00 a.m.

Golden Gate Park A trip to Golden Gate Park is the quintessential San Francisco outing for most visitors to the city. First proposed in the 1860s, the Park was both a visionary piece of city planning and a politically savvy bid for land use. While many city residents and officials agreed that the crowded city had few green spaces and needed a recreation area for its citizens, others saw it as a way for the city to lay claim to an outer tract of land populated by squatters hoping for homesteading land grants. At any rate, by 1870 the Park was underway.

Modeled on the rectangular design of Central Park in New York City, Golden Gate Park from the beginning faced challenges unique to its location. Early engineers of the Park battled sand and drought; over three quarters of the Park's land was originally sand dunes, and a lack of a water supply led to the costly piping in of water by a local company. However, continued efforts to plant various ground covers finally stabilized the sand dunes, and in 1888 the first onsite windmill-powered wells began circulating fresh water through the park. Within a few short years the shifting sands and windswept dunes had become verdant, sheltered grounds with acres of trees and water displays. As the century drew to a close, the eclectic building style of the late Victorian era populated the Park with many structures, and the Park was home to a menagerie of animals, including zebras, peacocks, bison, elephants, and kangaroos. Over time, structures in the park have been moved and renovated, and the park is now home to a world-renowned natural history museum, art museum, Japanese tea garden, carousel, conservatory, arboretum, and many other attractions. For more information about the attractions, hours, and parking, visit Golden Gate Park's website.

Chinatown Much has been written about the unfair laws and harsh treatment of the Chinese in America's history, and those who are unfamiliar with this topic would do well to acquaint themselves with this sad part of our history. However, as Americans we are lucky that this vibrant part of our culture and shared history is still visible in places such as San Francisco's Chinatown, the largest Chinatown outside of Asia and the oldest Chinatown in North America. For directions and info on various festivals and events taking place during the year, visit this site: San Francisco Chinatown website.

One of the premier destinations for purchasing Chinese tea on the West Coast, Vital Tea Leaf (1044 Grant Ave) is a relaxing tea house located in Chinatown, with free tea tastings and informative staff. The presentations are entertaining, and there is no hard sell; however, the tea is so good that you may have a difficult time leaving without buying any. Duck inside this storefront and while away a half an hour trying out a number of delicious teas served by enthusiastic experts. Miss your "hot cuppa" but can't make it down to SF again? Visit the website: Vital Tea Leaf.

Getting There For those of you who choose to explore the city in a car, be advised that parking in the downtown parking garages can prove ruinous, with typical rates in the neighborhood of $7 or more per hour. Visitors to Union Square or Pier 39 who come via car will have to park in these parking structures, as little street parking in these neighborhoods exists. While other parts of the city such as the Haight-Ashbury have free parking, if you plan to spend a full day downtown consider taking public transportation such as the BART. What you may sacrifice in speed on the BART is more than made up in money saved and traffic gridlock avoided.

While not a hard and fast rule, plan to exit the city proper around 3 PM or after 6:30 PM to avoid rush hour traffic, and be advised that the morning rush hour begins around 6 AM and lasts nearly until 9 AM. Going against traffic (i.e. leaving the city in the morning, or entering the city in the evening) somewhat ameliorates this trend. Also, be aware that all the bridges are toll bridges in at least one direction, and plan to have cash on hand for these (the average toll runs $4).

Budget Travel San Francisco: The Haight-Ashbury

2010-07-28T21:20:00.000-07:00

A Greek Revival building in the Haight-Ashbury

San Francisco has a reputation as a culturally progressive city, and for a good reason; many of the cultural developments of the last century in the U.S. began here. At times, specific neighborhoods in San Francisco seem to have spawned specific movements: the 1950s gave birth to the Beat Generation in the North Beach neighborhood, the Haight-Ashbury in the 1960s begat the counterculture movement and the Summer of Love in 1967, and the 1970s saw the gay rights movement gain prominence, with its epicenter in the Castro District.

Haight-Ashbury Made notorious during the heyday of the 1960s countercultural revolution, many pop culture historians consider the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood in San Francisco to have been the incubator of new styles of music, visual art, poetry, and performance art, as well as the birthplace of a revolution in politics and culture that swept the country in the latter part of the '60s.

To many people, the history of the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood begins in 1967, during the Summer of Love, and everything before is lost in a haze of, well, what-have-you. But historically, the San Francisco Bay area was a coastal wetland with the first documentable, radiocarbon-dated human habitation sites dating from about 5,500 years ago. By approximately AD 500, the Costanoan linguistic group was well-established in the San Francisco Bay area, with eight separate languages within this group, and 50 tribes each speaking a distinct dialect of one of these languages. By the time the Spanish arrived, the Ohlone, or Costanoan (as the Spanish called them) had a population of around 10,000.

Although the exact date of the first European contact with the San Francisco Bay area is contested (some claim that Bartoleme Ferrelo onboard the San Salvador was the first European to sail into San Francisco Bay on April 14, 1543; this is contradicted by other reports that he returned to San Diego on March 11 of the same year), the San Francisco Bay for the most part remained hidden by fog and inclement weather from the eyes of European sea explorers until the late 1700s.

A row of colorful Victorians in the Haight-Ashbury

In the 1700s, Spain began a process of settling missions along Baja and Alta (now the state of) California. This had disastrous results for the native inhabitants of the area, who succumbed at an estimated 90% death rate to diseases introduced by Europeans. Survivors of the epidemics were held captive at local missions and forced into labor, or remained autonomous and either traded with the Europeans or attacked them with armed forces. However, as the death toll from disease rose over the decades, many tribes were decimated by the loss of their members and the cultural and economic stability that vanished with them.

From 1769-1776, Spanish soldiers and members of the Franciscan order explored the area around present-day San Francisco, and in 1776, the Mission and Presidio of San Francisco were founded. The land of present-day San Francisco was claimed by various European sources; the pueblo of Yerba Buena (recognized in 1835 by Mexico), the Mission of Dolores, rancho owners, and San Francisco itself, which superseded Yerba Buena in 1851. As noted in the previous post, the Gold Rush of 1847-1859 provided a huge population boost to San Francisco. Between 1847 and 1849 alone, the population of San Francisco grew from 459 to approximately 30,000 people; by 1860, that number had grown to 56,800.

The area now known as the Haight-Ashbury district was mostly farmland and sand dunes until the completion of the Haight cable car line in 1883. After 1883, the area was developed with Victorian homes, and became an upper-middle-class neighborhood, left untouched by the fires of the 1906 earthquake. The Haight-Ashbury underwent declines both after the Great Depression and after World War II, and by the 1960s was significantly economically depressed. This made for cheap rents and fertile ground for the artists, musicians, and hangers-on of the counterculture movement in the 1960s. The following is a partial list of musicians and celebrities who at one point called the Haight their home, and their former addresses (snap a photo, but don't disturb the current residents):

The Grateful Dead (710 Ashbury St.)
The Hell's Angels (719 Ashbury St.)
Janis Joplin (635 Ashbury St., 112 Lyon)
Country Joe McDonald and The Fish (638 Ashbury St.)
Big Brother and the Holding Company (1018 Page St.)
Jimi Hendrix (1524 Haight St.)
Charles Manson (616 Page St.)
Graham Nash, and later Bobby McFerrin (731 Buena Vista West)
Sid Vicious (32 Delmar St.)
Jefferson Airplane rehearsal space, house, and office (32 Delmar St.)
Hunter S. Thompson (318 Parnassus St.)

Many feel that the quality of life and culture of the Haight-Ashbury reached its apogee in 1967 (the Summer of Love, staged in the Haight), and that it's been all downhill since then. The Summer of Love was certainly one high point of the counterculture movement, and was of such short duration that many felt that it was over by the fall of 1967. Much has been written about this cultural phenomenon, and it's not the goal of this post to explore it any further. The Haight-Ashbury certainly went into a decline in the later '60s and '70s, but its lower property values attracted investors in the 1980s, and since then the forces of gentrification and tourism have revitalized the neighborhood, albeit in a way that is less 'authentic' than its 1960s heyday.

Greek Revival detailing in the Haight-Ashbury

Say what you will about the Haight-Ashbury of the 1960s; what's left today has the feel of the edge of a college campus, with lots of overpriced pub food, crystal-and-tapestry stores, head shops, and vintage clothing and record outlets. Gone are the cheap rents of yesteryear, and in their place the welcome (to some) signs of urban restoration, with many of the Victorians and stucco apartment buildings sporting fresh coats of bright-colored paint and sparkling gold leaf on the details. Perhaps this commercial activity, fed by the tourist trade flocking to see the historic Haight-Ashbury, is a fitting monument for a cultural movement which even at its peak was quickly exploited and caricatured by the media of the 1960s and early '70s.

To see the dreaded aftermath of the Summer of Love, visit my friend Tyler's blog Only In Eugene.

For more about the early history of the San Francisco Bay area, visit:

An 'Unvanished History': 5,500 Years of History in the Vicinity of Seventh and Mission Streets, San Francisco

Local California Chronology: The First Settlers

Getting There For those of you who choose to explore the city in a car, be advised that parking in the downtown parking garages can prove ruinous, with typical rates in the neighborhood of $7 or more per hour. Visitors to Union Square or Pier 39 who come via car will have to park in these parking structures, as little street parking in these neighborhoods exists. While other parts of the city such as the Haight-Ashbury have free parking, if you plan to spend a full day downtown consider taking public transportation such as the BART. What you may sacrifice in speed on the BART is more than made up in money saved and traffic gridlock avoided.

While not a hard and fast rule, plan to exit the city proper around 3 PM or after 6:30 PM to avoid rush hour traffic, and be advised that the morning rush hour begins around 6 AM and lasts nearly until 9 AM. Going against traffic (i.e. leaving the city in the morning, or entering the city in the evening) somewhat ameliorates this trend. Also, be aware that all the bridges are toll bridges in at least one direction, and plan to have cash on hand for these (the average toll runs $4).

Budget Travel San Francisco: The Marina District

2010-06-06T00:37:00.000-07:00

Regular visitors to Shoestring Traveler know that we love architecture, and San Francisco is a great destination for fans of design. While you can throw a rock anywhere in the city and be sure to hit a Victorian house (but please don't!), in the next few posts we will be featuring several neighborhoods notable for their outstanding homes.

A San Francisco Marina District home with typical Mediterranean Revival architecture

Marina District However you may feel about the denizens of the Marina District (see links below), this neighborhood is home to many beautiful residences built in the 1920's and 1930's, during the heyday of the Mediterranean Revival that deposited pastel-colored stucco confections up and down the West Coast like so many petits fours. A walk beginning on the Marina waterfront, and continuing south toward Lombard St. or west toward the Presidio, will take the traveler through many blocks of attractive homes, each with a pocket-sized bit of manicured shrubbery or a small yard tucked behind tiled walls.

Moroccan-themed fountain in a courtyard in the Marina District

Marina District apartment building

The history of the Marina District is brief; the area was essentially marshland and sand dunes until after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, when rubble from the destroyed city was used as landfill and the Marina District was created. The area was quickly developed over the next 30 years, and gradually became one of the more homogeneous neighborhoods in the city. A landfill does not make for stable ground, however; history repeated itself in 1989, when San Francisco was rocked by another devastating earthquake and many of the buildings in the Marina District were damaged by the quake and the accompanying fire. In the aftermath of the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, the neighborhood was rebuilt and seismically upgraded; visitors today will see a neighborhood retaining nearly all of its original early-20th-century charm.

Stucco buildings with small, detailed ornaments and terracotta roofs are a signature of this neighborhood

For more information about the Marina District bar scene and the much-documented/vilified yuppie "wildlife", read the articles below:

"Forgive Me, for I Live in the Marina" -SF Weekly

"Strangers in the Night: Bars, Cheap Sex, and Boozy Anthropology" -San Francisco Bay Guardian News

About San Francisco Because of its geographic location and liberal politics, San Francisco has long been a culturally and ethnically diverse city. As one of the oldest and largest port cities on the West Coast, it is a gateway for immigration, and consequently has many vibrant communities from a variety of ethnic backgrounds. San Francisco has also historically been a relatively wealthy city with a large population and a strong banking industry, both of which have roots in the California Gold Rush of the mid-nineteenth century. Testament to the deep coffers of the city, San Francisco quickly rebuilt on a luxurious scale after the 1906 earthquake, and supposedly withstood the Great Depression without a single bank failure (at least according to a 1935 article in the San Francisco Examiner). Whether its success is due to a truly great civic model, or merely having excellent P.R., the public and private buildings of the city largely speak to its wealth and industry, as well as to the vision of its architects and planners.

Fantastic Art Deco apartment building in the Marina District

Budget Travel Oregon: Tamolitch Pool, McKenzie River

2010-03-02T22:05:00.000-08:00

Tamolitch Pool, known by many as Blue Pool due to its brilliant aquamarine water, is a rewarding destination along the McKenzie River Trail approximately an hour east of Eugene, OR.

Tamolitch Pool is the basin of Tamolitch Falls, once a natural waterfall on the McKenzie River that has since been diverted by EWEB, buried by lava flows, and is now a "dry" waterfall. What remains is a large, breathtaking pool of spring-fed water that shades from deep purple to turquoise.

The trail to Tamolitch Pool leaves from a trail head a few hundred yards off of Highway 126, and is a four mile loop along part of the popular 26-mile-long McKenzie River Trail. For the first mile or so the trail winds through cedar and hemlock forests and runs parallel to the river. The trail then climbs approximately 200 feet in elevation as it crosses a moss-covered lava bed for the second mile, and the McKenzie River rushes far below at the base of the basalt cliffs.

After approximately 2 miles the trail reaches the pool, and hikers have a nice vantage point from the top of a cliff; bring a lunch to eat while you sit and enjoy the view.

Getting There From Eugene or Springfield, take Highway 126 east for approximately 65 miles. From the highway will be visible the small EWEB power station at the upper end of Trailbridge Reservoir; turn left onto the unmarked road that serves the power station (this road is 14 miles east of the small community of McKenzie Bridge). Cross the bridge and turn to your right. Approximately half a mile down the gravel road you will see the signs for the trail head. While the trail has a high volume of traffic during the warmest months of the year, the view of the pool is worth the extra company.

Budget Travel Oregon: Sahalie and Koosah Falls

2010-02-18T01:09:00.000-08:00

Explore Sahalie and Koosah Falls, two cascading waterfalls along the McKenzie River Trail outside of Eugene, OR.

Koosah Falls

The McKenzie River is a favorite hiking destination for those in the know, and for good reason. So pristine that it provides the drinking water for the city of Eugene, bordered by many hot springs, and criss-crossed by hiking trails, the McKenzie River and its surroundings are a veritable playground for Eugene and Springfield outdoors enthusiasts.

The McKenzie River Trail is a 26.5-mile-long trail that runs along the McKenzie River much of its distance, and leads hikers past raging waterfalls and through moss-covered lava beds and old-growth forests. The trail skirts several campgrounds, each conveniently located approximately 2-5 miles apart for backpackers, and most offering potable water. The trail is open to mountain bikers as well, and rafters enjoy the class I-class III rapids on the nearby river.

Sahalie Falls

While hiking the entire McKenzie River Trail is a worthy undertaking, fortunately for day-hikers there are many access points along Highway 126 where it is possible to hike portions of the trail. Located at the northern end of the trail, and accessible either via through-hiking the trail, or via a pull-out on Highway 126, Sahalie and Koosah Falls tumble over basalt cliffs in a roar of scenic whitewater.

Small waterfalls above the main falls at Sahalie

Both of the waterfalls were formed by a (geologically) recent flow of basalt approximately 3,000 years ago. Evidence of geologic upheaval in the area abounds, whether in the lava flows a mile south of Koosah Falls and surrounding nearby Clear Lake, or in the geothermal springs at Belknap Hot Springs a few miles down the road. The McKenzie River is fed by many large cold springs too, the most spectacular of which is the Tamolitch Pool, or Blue Pool, 4.3 miles south of Koosah Falls. Much of the spring water comes from the neighboring High Cascades, and the mechanics of this particular river's water system are poorly understood; in particular, the role of climate change in reducing snowpacks in the Cascades is feared to greatly impact river levels. Because Oregon's second largest urban area relies on this river for drinking water and hydroelectric power, scientists with the Forest Service and Oregon State University predict that the McKenzie River could become a battleground for water rights issues as soon as 2050.

Getting There Head east on Highway 126 out of Springfield, OR, for approximately 70 miles. Park on the left side of Highway 126 in a turnout approximately 0.5 miles past the left turn for Sahalie Falls, and approximately 20 miles east of the McKenzie Bridge community. The distance from the turnout to Sahalie Falls is 0.7 miles, and from Sahalie to Koosah Falls is 0.4 miles. Once you reach Koosah Falls, it is possible to keep going south along the McKenzie River trail past Carmen Reservoir, or for a shorter hike simply retrace your steps.

Budget Travel Oregon: Watson Falls

2010-01-19T20:03:00.000-08:00

One of the highest waterfalls in Oregon, Watson Falls plunges 272 feet to its moss-covered base, and is an easy 0.8 mile hike round-trip with a 300 foot elevation gain. Located along Highway 138, Watson Falls is one of a string of waterfalls whose trail heads are easily accessed from the highway, and is a quick stop during any trip through the area.

The Watson Falls trail leaves from a parking lot, and climbs up a short, somewhat steep but well-tended path, and crosses a series of bridges at the base of the falls. Pause here for an attractive view of the falls, and then proceed along a path to your left for a closer view of the basin several hundred feet farther along the path. Return back down the side trail to the juncture and complete the loop back to the parking lot for a total hike of approximately 0.8 miles.

Highway 138 parallels the North Umpqua River, and connects Roseburg with Crater Lake. While the drive is of exceptional scenic beauty, it also offers unrivaled access to many recreational activities on the river. The North Umpqua River has a Wild and Scenic designation for 33.8 miles, and you will find opportunities to fly fish, hike, backpack, camp, mountain bike, swim, and raft along its class II-class V rapids. The North Umpqua Trail is a 79-mile long trail open to backpackers, campers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders, and parallels the North Umpqua River for most of its length.

For maps and more information regarding the North Umpqua Trail, go to the U.S. Forest Service website: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/umpqua/recreation/hiking/north-umpqua-trails/1414-north-umpqua-trail.shtml

Nearby Toketee Lake at dusk.

Getting There From Roseburg, take Highway 138 for approximately 61 miles. Turn south on Road 37, and park at the trail head parking lot approximately 0.2 miles down the road. The trail head has picnic benches, pit toilets, and interpretive signs. Sadly, due to storm damage, nearby beautiful Toketee Falls has been closed to the public for repairs since January 2008.

Happy New Year! Shoestring Traveler's Best Pictures of 2009

2010-01-07T20:14:00.000-08:00

From sunrises worthy of a J.M.W. Turner painting to architecture from the most European of American cities, 2009 has proved to be a scenic year. Here's a few of our favorite pictures from trips taken this year; hope you enjoy them and keep coming back to visit us. Happy traveling in the New Year!

Desert Paintbrush

Jason found lots of this pretty flower in September out at Green Mountain Campground, a rustic 3-site campground near Fort Rock. This is a great (although primitive) campground which receives little traffic, and consequently has clean 'facilities' and lots of privacy. Listen to the coyotes serenade you at sunrise, and watch the jackrabbits come out at dusk. Star-gazing is phenomenal on a clear night, due to the lack of light pollution and Eastern Oregon's relatively cloud-free summer climate; for added fun, camp here during a full moon. Still don't believe us? Terry Richards (writer for The Oregonian) included it in his 2008 Top Ten Campgrounds list. "It's like pitching a tent in the sky...." he writes.

For more information about Green Mountain Campground and its amenities, go to http://www.publiclands.org/explore/site.php?id=3476

View from my hotel room at 4:30 AM

If you're in the Fort Rock area and would rather spring for a cheap motel room, head to Christmas Valley and book a room at the Lakeside Terrace Motel (87275 Spruce Ln). You will wake up to stunning sunrises over Christmas Lake, like the ones pictured here, right outside your front door. Lakeside Terrace Motel, 87275 Spruce Lane, Christmas Valley, OR 97641, (541) 576-2309.

Another great lodging option, although without the view, is just down the street at the Christmas Valley Desert Inn Motel (541) 576-2262.

Another incredible sunrise, also from the room at the Lakeside Terrace Motel. If you want pictures like this, just get up early and bring some bread to distract the geese.

While you're in the area, don't forget to visit Fort Rock! Visible for miles around in every direction, Fort Rock rises up out of the sagebrush like a McMenamins outdoor amphitheater (thankfully, the Starbucks of microbreweries hasn't made it out to Lake County yet. You can still drink your Bud Light in peace for a little while longer). Climb all over the monolith, hunt for petroglyphs, and read about how University of Oregon archeologist Luther Cressman found dozens of prehistoric sandals which pre-dated Phil Knight (another UO alum) by roughly 10,000 years. Apparently Fort Rock has beat out Nike for Oregon's first shoe company; I'm sure there's a Nike commercial in there somewhere. ("Just DID it!")

Who would have thought sleepy little Christmas Valley was the sunset/sunrise capital of the world? 'Round about forest fire season (July/August/September) in Eastern Oregon, the air out here starts to rival downtown Beijing in the amount of particulate matter, and the sunrises and sunsets really start to sizzle. This picture of a sunset was taken in August from the parking lot of a grocery store in Christmas Valley.

No trip to New Orleans is complete without a stop at one of the New Orleans city cemeteries. Large marble-clad tombs are built above ground, and decorated with ornate sculpture. If you notice a slightly sulfurous odor, it's not your imagination: the sun on the iron roof of the tomb acts as a crematorium, rapidly decomposing the human remains in under a year. This means that the family's crypt is reused as often as necessary, and the city saves space. While this may be a grisly bit of detail, early New Orleanians found it the best solution in a city with a high water table and frequent flooding (hey, you can't keep a good man down!).

Most people recommend taking a guided tour, or at least traveling in a group, as the cemeteries can attract criminal behavior such as mugging.

Rue Dauphine in the French Quarter, New Orleans

There are plenty of excellent guided tours in New Orleans' French Quarter, but you can't beat a walk down Rue Dauphine for the truly budget-minded. You don't have to know a thing about architecture to appreciate the unique beauty of the Vieux Carre. Don't forget the neighboring Faubourg Marigny right across Esplanade Ave from the French Quarter; it's hard to believe that at one time this neighborhood was considered a suburb.

View of the North Sister in the Cascade Mountain Range. Taken from the Matthieu Lakes trail.

The Matthieu Lakes trail in the Cascades is one of the best introductions to Oregon's spectacular wilderness. Close to the Willamette Valley (the hike is east of Eugene and Salem, and less than a two-hour drive from either city), the trail is an easy climb to a ridge between the North and Middle Sister, and has panoramic views of the Cascade Mountain Range.

Thanks for traveling with us on Shoestring Traveler, and here's to many adventures in 2010!

Budget Travel New Orleans: Styles of Architecture in New Orleans

2009-12-29T22:52:00.000-08:00

St. Louis Cathedral (seen from Jackson Square in the French Quarter of New Orleans)

New Orleans is known worldwide for its distinctive architecture. Strong Spanish, French, African, and Caribbean influences, combined with the city's relative antiquity, make the buildings in New Orleans unlike any other city's in the United States. With only approximately 25 structures still standing in the French Quarter that date from the French and Spanish colonial period, (the Ursuline Convent [1745-1752] is the last existing representative of French colonial architecture that dates from before the city's transfer to Spain), the architecture of New Orleans is truly a New-World melange of styles that accurately reflects the city's historic diversity and grandeur. A stroll through the French Quarter and Faubourg Marigny, and a ride on the St. Charles streetcar will convince the visitor that the genius loci of this incredible city is alive and undiminished even after the devastation of Hurricane Katrina.

Creole Townhouse Much of the French Quarter and Faubourg Marigny are comprised of this building style. Identifiable by its two-story (and occasionally three-story) elevation, set flush with the property line, and bearing a wrought (or more often cast) iron balcony on the second/third stories, the Creole Townhouse style was mainly constructed between 1788 (after the Great New Orleans Fire the same year) and the mid-1800's. Many of these structures started out as a combined business and dwelling, with a shop or storeroom occupying the ground floor, and family quarters on the second floor.

Garconniere The word comes to us from the French (and includes some accents and characters my computer keyboard won't divulge). Varying reports state that it is the name given to the two-story buildings built on a plantation to house the bachelors of the family, and the name for similar structures in the French Quarter, which were adjacent to Creole Cottages, and held kitchens on the bottom floor and servants' quarters upstairs. The semi-tropical weather of New Orleans made a detached kitchen, with its considerable heat generated by the around-the-clock meal preparation of a large household, a welcomed innovation. At any rate, many of the Garconnieres have now been remodeled and enjoy new lives as simple apartments and artist studios.

A lovely example of a Double Shotgun house on Rue Dauphine in the French Quarter

Shotgun The original template for a Shotgun style dwelling was a narrow, long, single-story building set on a raised foundation of brick piers. The Shotgun house is considered by many to be a descendant of houses in the Caribbean, and by extension, of African influence. The early 1800's gave rise to the first documented New Orleans Shotgun dwellings, whose popularity peaked after the Civil War, and then declined after the Great Depression. Not until the end of the 20th Century did the Shotgun's popularity recover; now it is viewed as an indigenous form of architecture, and many homes in New Orleans have been lovingly restored.

The Shotgun design allows for much cross-ventilation in hot climates, and maximizes space while minimizing a variety of historic property taxes. Some older New Orleans laws taxed the width of the house, and at other times the number of rooms; a Shotgun floor plan minimized both of these features with a narrow front, and a lack of closets and hallways (strangely paralleling the modern-day New York City rental market, closets and hallways in New Orleans were at one time counted as rooms). The original Shotgun house had no hallway; later versions added an external hallway, and others built duplexes, aptly named Double Shotguns. As with much architecture in the area, creative flair in decoration, floor plans, and paint have led to many beautiful and eye-catching permutations of the original design, and half the fun of walking around the older neighborhoods in New Orleans is in admiring the homes.

A Shotgun house; note the off-center roof.

A Double Shotgun house built for single-occupancy, judging by the molding on the windows, none of which appear to have been converted from a second doorway. Either that, or a good restoration job. Note the wooden quoins on the sides of the house, the dentile molding and Greek Revival columns on the front porch. The shingled gable lends an interesting Victorian touch as well.

A lovely row of homes on Rue Dauphine, mixing Shotgun houses and Creole Cottages. The blue house could possibly be classified as a side hall cottage or a side hall Shotgun, although its entrance would appear to now be on the side of the dwelling.

A house on Esplanade Avenue, between the Faubourg Marigny and the French Quarter. Although difficult to perceive in the photograph, the scale of this house is large, with high ceilings and wide rooms. The foundation puts the house at head-height above the ground, a feature that many New Orleans homes of this era and style share. A number of influences are on display here; the rounded Corinthian columns suggest a touch of Italianate, the asymmetrical, rounded porch references Queen Anne-style Victorian, and the single-story (not counting the probable basement concealed in the raised foundation) house built on a monumental scale is authentic New Orleans. The roof appears to be an interesting mix of slate and terra cotta tile, and what looks like bulls-eye molding surrounds the dormer windows in the attic. All in all an interesting amalgamation of architectural styles.

A house in the Faubourg Marigny, bearing elements of Stick/Eastlake style Victorian design while also referencing the two-story Creole Townhouse as well. The bracketed, overhanging flat roof, the decorative quoins, and the wood siding of this building resembles some of its simpler Stick/Eastlake Victorian cousins in San Francisco, but the narrow, two story floor plan and cast-iron ornamentation is purely New Orleans.

The French Quarter, the Faubourg Marigny, and the Garden District (ride the St. Charles streetcar for a great tour of the Garden District's wonderful antebellum Southern mansions) are just a few of the historic neighborhoods which are fun to wander in as you explore the architecture of New Orleans. While it's possibly the definition of budget travel to go on a walk through one of these neighborhoods (or take the $1.25 streetcar), there are many low-cost neighborhood tours as well, which may deepen your enjoyment and understanding of what you are seeing. One such company, INE Tours, offers a nice website with guided tours, as well as notes for a self-guided French Quarter tour: http://www.inetours.com/New_Orleans/New_Orleans_Tours.html Your hotel will also have many recommendations for tour companies in the area.

Budget Travel Oregon: Newport and Nye Beach

2009-12-26T00:40:00.000-08:00

The Yaquina Bay Bridge spans 3,260 feet, and was completed in 1936

Just because it's the off-season on the Oregon coast doesn't mean that there's nothing to do! Explore the shopping districts in Newport's Nye Beach and old waterfront, eat some world-class fresh seafood at one of the many delicious restaurants, or curl up with a good book and watch the surf from beside a warm fire. Live like a local for an afternoon or a weekend with our suggestions.

Attractions

Oregon's flagship aquarium, and one of Newport's main draws, the Oregon Coast Aquarium is home to a number of exciting exhibits including Passages of the Deep, or as I like to call it, Shark Week Live. Open every day of the year, except for Christmas Day. For more information, directions, and hours go to: http://www.aquarium.org/

With a suggested donation for admission, the visitor center at the Hatfield Marine Science Center in Newport is a low-cost alternative to the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Plenty of hands-on exhibits designed for younger visitors make this aquarium a fun place to bring the kids (and make for some terrified starfish). For directions and hours go to: http://hmsc.oregonstate.edu/visitor/visit/about

Complete with a ghost story and a hidden basement passage, the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse (846 Southwest Government Street) is a fun stop on a rainy afternoon. Partly a lighthouse exhibit and partly a museum filled with housewares dating from the 1870's, the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is staffed by enthusiastic volunteers who tell about the trials and tribulations of early life on the Oregon coast. (For bonus points, rent and watch either version of The Fog to complete your Oregon lighthouse experience.)

Shopping

I never visit Newport without a stop at Jovi (232 NW Coast St., Nye Beach, Newport). Full of artfully presented gifts from around the world, Jovi specializes in jewelry, linens, table settings, curios, and bath products. Plan to spend at least an hour admiring the wares, and don't expect to leave empty handed.

Toujours Boutique (704 NW Beach Dr., Newport) seems to have a certain 30- to 50-something woman in mind, one who enjoys wearing colorful clothing, wild scarves, and lots of costume jewelry. The store stocks many basic tops for layering, including tank tops, blouses, blazers, and sweaters. If you think fake fur is fabulous, this is the store for you.

The ancient Romans considered baths an essential sign of civilization; our modern-day equivalent would be a Coach or The Gap outlet store. By this measure, at least, nearby Lincoln City is a civilized place, as it possesses both at the Tanger Outlet Stores (rhymes with "anger"). 19 miles north of Newport on Highway 101.

Dining

By far the best Thai food I've ever had, Andaman Thai (660 Highway 101, Lincoln City) is home to a very talented Thai chef who is passionate about her craft. We never visit this area of the coast without a stop at Andaman Thai. Although the service is slow at times, the food is worth the wait, and the chef visits each table to introduce your meal. The lunch menu has lower prices and smaller portions than the dinner menu.

I've always greeted pub food with a mental shudder, until I tried the Irish soda bread and potato and cabbage soup at Nana's Irish Pub (613 NW 3rd St., Nye Beach, Newport). While a Scotch egg to me is still a thing to be eaten only after losing a bet, I've gained a new appreciation for Ireland's contribution to cuisine. The food was satisfying on such a basic, atavistic level that it left me searching my family tree for a long-lost Irish ancestor (sadly, none turned up). No matter. A Google search for "Irish Soda Bread Recipe" is a good substitute.

After fingering the wares at Jovi, you can cross NW Coast St. and eat at Cafe Mundo, a community cooperative that features local art, music, and some great Mexican food. Order the fish tacos, and experience what fresh seafood is all about.

If the cold rain is getting to you, head on down to Newport's old waterfront and order a piping hot bowl of Vietnamese pho soup at the Noodle Cafe (837 SW Bay Blvd). The Noodle Cafe serves excellent Vietnamese and Japanese food in a cozy dining room overlooking the bay. Linger over hot sake to take the chill off, and then go and visit the noisy colony of sea lions that lives nearby.

Lodging

The Collette Room at the Sylvia Beach Hotel

Staying at the Sylvia Beach Hotel (267 N.W. Cliff, Nye Beach, Newport) is a little like traveling back in time to a seaside resort 100 years ago. Eschewing televisions and phones, the hotel instead features a reading room with a panoramic view and a roaring fireplace, a well-stocked library, and lively discussions with fellow guests over the breakfast and dinner table. Each room has a different author for a theme, and the price of the room includes a hearty breakfast in the common dining room. The building dates from 1912, and many of the rooms are furnished in a style to reflect the era of each particular author. For more information and to reserve a room visit: http://www.sylviabeachhotel.com/

Getting There From Portland, Newport (located on Highway 101) is a 2.5 to 3 hour drive via one of several passes over the Coast Range. The route with the lowest elevation (a consideration during winter weather) is via Highway 22 through Salem. From Eugene it is a 2 hour drive via Florence or Corvallis, and closer to 3 hours via Salem.

Budget Travel Oregon: Blue Basin and Thomas Condon Paleontology Center

2009-12-20T23:14:00.000-08:00

Travel back millions of years in time to a very different Oregon along the trails in the Blue Basin, part of the Sheep Rock Unit of the John Day Fossil Beds in Eastern Oregon. Curious about the animals that once roamed the Pacific Northwest? After you visit the nearby Thomas Condon Paleontology Center, you'll be glad that the only prehistoric animals you'll bump into these days are fossils. The Center features a wealth of exhibits showing the changing face of Oregon's flora and fauna.

Blue Basin Like the erosion-carved tuffa pillars of central Turkey, or better yet a location directly out of the movie Star Wars, the Blue Basin amazes visitors with its otherworldly blue-green rock formations. Giant beavers, turtles, and saber-toothed lions lie forever on display, their skeletons frozen in the volcanic ash (the real fossils have been removed, but precise replicas have been left in their place).

Two trails leave from the parking lot of the Blue Basin: the Island in Time trail (1 mile), which leads to the center of the Blue Basin amphitheater, and the Overlook Trail (3 miles, 600 foot elevation gain), which takes you on a loop through the area and includes a nice overlook of the John Day River Valley.

Like the nearby Painted Hills, the color of the Blue Basin rock formations is at its best shortly after rainfall, but be careful of slippery conditions due to the heavy clay content in the soil. The longer Overlook Trail can be hazardous in inclement weather. Summer is a good time to visit, but the temperature can soar to over 100 F, so bring plenty of water and sunscreen.

Thomas Condon Paleontology Center The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument contains one of the world's most complete fossil records for the time period between 6 and 54 million years ago. This highly volcanic region (which is now present-day Eastern Oregon) preserved a great number of examples of plant and animal species, and has left us an excellent record of the climate changes over the epochs. A great way to explore the local discoveries is to visit the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center, only a few minutes drive from the Blue Basin.

With a wealth of fossils and displays, the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center brings to life a very different Oregon from the one we know today. Informative diagrams and carefully labeled fossils encourage visitors to linger over the display cases, and enthusiastic curators close at hand happily answer questions. Ongoing research at the Center and in the nearby fossil beds yields new discoveries every day, and visitors get a palpable sense of science in action as they tour the Center. For more information visit the website: http://www.nps.gov/joda/sheep-rock.htm

Getting There The Thomas Condon Paleontology Center is part of the John Day Fossil Beds Sheep Rock Unit, and is located on Highway 19 between the towns of Dayville and Kimberly, 2 miles from the junction of Highway 26 and Highway 19. It is roughly a 4.5 hour drive from either Eugene or Portland. The Blue Basin trail head is approximately 3 miles beyond the Paleontology Center on Highway 19.

Budget Travel New Orleans: Shopping

2009-10-28T08:08:00.001-07:00

In which we explore the marvelous shopping in the French Quarter, and get in touch with our inner (and outer) Trashy Diva.

Shopping Shopping is to you as oxygen is to _________ ? If you answered "life on earth," you have come to the right city. New Orlean's French Quarter does not lack for fabulous shops. I'll leave it to you to decide whether or not to explore the tourist tchotchke shops; Rue Decatur and the French Market have plenty of cheap souvenirs. But for the discriminating (and less budget-minded) shopper, the French Quarter offers some serious clothes and jewelry shopping.

The French Quarter can be roughly broken down in the following manner: Decatur is the street where you eat, Bourbon is the street where you drink, Dauphine is the street where you stroll, Royal is the street where you buy jewelry, and Chartres is the street where you buy clothes. This is certainly not a hard and fast rule! In particular, there are many restaurants (in fact some of the best) in the French Quarter not on Decatur St. However, you will find the majority of the jewelry shops, for instance, on the aptly-name Royal St. In this post, we will explore some of the great offerings of Chartres St. and Royal St.

Jackson Square in the Center of the French Quarter

Hemline (609 Chartres) Voted #1 Women's Clothing Store by New Orleans publications several years in a row, featured in Style and Lucky Magazine, Hemline manifestly deserves this distinction for several reasons. Carrying over 200 different lines of clothing, including BCBG, French Connection, Tulle, DVF, and Trina Turk to name just a few, Hemline stocks a multitude of stylish clothes in a wide range of sizes. Many of the brands they carry emphasize superior tailoring, and once you try on the clothes you will understand just how good well-designed clothing can make you look. Whether you're looking for a fun coat, a party dress, au courant work clothes, or some strappy shoes, the sales staff is knowledgeable and will help you to get the best fit possible. While the prices are higher than mid-level department stores, the selection is incredible, and the sales rack is heavily discounted (and will be where the true budget travelista will head anyway). Hymn to expensive clothing aside, Hemline is a fun place to check out the season's trends, and to fall in love with a flattering blouse or land a great cocktail dress.

UAL (518 Chartres) The initials stand for United Apparel Liquidators, Inc., and if any store was made for the bargain-hunting fashion-possessed, this is it. This store features deeply discounted (we're talking 75-90%) high end fashion from some of the big names. The racks are stuffed, and you have to hunt, but you can find clothes by Valentino, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and many others. I nearly choked when I found some Proenza Schouler and Miu Miu pumps (in my size! OMG OMG OMG!) for a price far below original retail. The store also stocks racks of Velvet tops and dresses, a regular Anthropologie label, and offers very affordable casual clothes if you're not exactly looking for a Vera Wang suit.

On the downside (is there ever a downside to Proenza Schouler pumps for $125?), UAL is stocked to the rafters, and the racks of clothes are very full. The best way to shop here is to indulge your hunter-gatherer instincts and spend several hours picking over everything. Another strike against the store is that many of the clothes are sample sizes: you're in luck if you're a size 0-6, but above that the designer labels start to thin out. Which is not to say that you won't find anything above a size 6; it's just that the selection is much reduced. The more casual clothing there (jeans and t-shirts) has a full range of sizes. Most of the shoes fall within the size 6-size 10 range, however, and those of you graced with larger feet will have plenty to choose from. Don't forget to look over the handbag and jewelry offerings as well.

A Contrast Between Old and New in the French Quarter

Trashy Diva (829 Chartres) If you've ever envied the figure-flattering clothes that women from the 1940's and the 1950's wore, then Trashy Diva will feel like heaven on earth. Designed by New Orleanian Candice Gwinn, the store offers a wide selection of blouses, skirts, dresses, and lingerie inspired by the silhouettes of 1950's stars like Marilyn Monroe and Jayne Mansfield. In other words, these clothes will give you a waist! While the clothes might seem like reproductions, they are actually carefully tailored pieces made to flatter a modern variety of figures, and the designer's commitment to clothing women of all shapes and sizes is laudable. Don't forget to stop by the Trashy Diva lingerie store (for more varieties of Spanx than Baskin-Robbins has ice cream), and the Trashy Diva shoe store next door to complete your outfit. www.trashydiva.com

Fifi Mahoney's (934 Royal) When sales people reply to the question "Do you have any Kurt Cobain wigs?" with the question "Which era of Kurt? We have three types," you know that you are in good hands. While this wig store prefers to discourage casual browsers, the sales staff is happy to oblige if you are actually, well, shopping for a wig. They will gladly dish on makeup and accessory advice for your costume, and it's easy to spend an hour or two just checking out the hair styles. We ended up going with the Kurt circa In Utero wig. Just can't wait for your next trip to New Orleans to buy that Lady Gaga wig? There's a website: www.fifi-mahony.com

Meilleur Joaillerie (516 Royal) Decked out like a French boudoir with beaucoup des toile and chandeliers, Meilleur has case after case of beautifully presented estate and costume jewelry. If you are looking for cascading diamond earrings or a glitzy cocktail ring, or would just like to try some on to see how the other half lives, make sure to visit Meilleur for an afternoon (and don't forget the credit card).

While this post doesn't hew very close to the "budget" theme of the other New Orleans posts, hopefully it will serve to steer those in a shopping mood toward some of the great stores that the French Quarter has to offer!

Budget Travel New Orleans: Where to Eat and Drink

2009-10-21T19:29:00.000-07:00

In which we explore the superb local theater scene, drink absinthe at the kitschy Soviet-era bar Pravda, and tour some of the budget French Quarter restaurants.

Theater The residents of New Orleans take pride in the great depth of history and culture that their city has to offer. Boasting the oldest opera in North America, with the first documented performance in 1796, the city has a vibrant theater history that extends to this day. While in the city we were lucky to see OPUS, the current offering by the Southern Rep Theatre. Mark Routhier directed the show, and starring in the role of Dorian was the marvelous Vatican Lokey, a great friend of mine. Look for him next in (among other things) the upcoming New Orleans productions of With a Bang and Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.

The Talented Mr. Lokey

For more information about theater in New Orleans, visit the following sites:

http://www.stageclick.com/

http://www.southernrep.com/

http://www.lepetittheatre.com/

http://www.neworleansopera.org/opera-season.html

For an entertaining glimpse into the life of a working actor, visit Vatican's website and blog at:

http://vaticanlokey.theatricana.com/

http://vaticanspad.blogspot.com/

Eating and Drinking New Orleans is not only below sea level, but appears to be pickled as well. According to NPR, the city sports the most bars per capita in the U.S., and while a stubborn contingent maintains that that honor goes to Austin, Texas, I'm choosing to back New Orleans' claim.

Although it's entirely possible to get thoroughly soused on Bourbon St. (and there is a time and a place for that--it's called Mardi Gras), a wise drinker would do well to branch out a bit. Sample the Pimm's Cup at the Napoleon House (500 Chartres St.), and listen to the local legend about how the pirate Jean Lafitte and others plotted in 1821 to rescue Napoleon from his exile on St. Helena and offer him shelter in Louisiana. While the story may be apocryphal, the building has been deemed an historic building by the U.S. Department of the Interior, and retains much of the charm dating from its construction in 1797.

Pravda

If you're looking for a more grown-up venue, perhaps one better suited for conversation, head to Pravda on Decatur St. (1113 Decatur). Decorated in red and gray, with portraits of Lenin, Stalin, and Marx, the bar serves a mean sazerac and dispenses absinthe with aplomb. Vatican, Jason, and I whiled away several hours in the courtyard in between rain showers, while turtles in the fountain slowly drifted across the underwater lights and cast moving shadows on the walls.

What's better than 24-hour-a-day doughnuts? Well, when those doughnuts are a heavenly little thing called a "beignet," and the place in question serves delicious chickory-flavored cafe au lait and is called Cafe du Monde. Next door to the French Market, Cafe du Monde is an institution in a city of institutions. You will find a crowd at all hours of the night and day eating its fill of fresh beignets and coffee in the powdered-sugar-dusted open-air cafe.

While it's practically impossible to eat a bad meal in this town, and the portions are always generous, sometimes the cost of eating out every day while traveling can get excessive. In particular, the restaurants serving tourists in the French Quarter tend to have a higher-than-average quality of food, which is often reflected in a higher-than-average price. Mona's Cafe (504 Frenchmen St., across Canal St. from the French Quarter in the Faubourg Marigny) is a great exception to the rule, serving some of the best Lebanese food I've ever had at a low price (open seven days a week). Another great cheap restaurant in the French Quarter is Moon Wok (800 Rue Dauphine), which serves shamefully large portions of mouth-watering Vietnamese and Chinese food for $6-$8 an entree (closed Wednesdays).

'Eat Here' Indeed....

For the foodie, there are few better places to visit in the United States than New Orleans. For the budget traveler, the above-mentioned restaurants and bars represent a few of the many intersections between haute cuisine and low prices in this incredible city. I'm getting hungry just thinking about it....

Budget Travel New Orleans: the Green Goddess and the Frenchman Hotel

2009-09-19T08:08:00.000-07:00

The Green Goddess I cannot recommend this restaurant highly enough. The food is cooked and served by a staff passionate about food, and their enthusiasm is well-founded. The delicious entrees range from $7-$14, and are an eclectic blend of many ethnic food influences and exotic ingredients; sort of a California fusion cuisine with a New Orleans spin. I had the blue corn crepe with sauteed Aztec corn fungus and lobster mushrooms, Jason had the buffalo meatloaf, and the coconut milk sweet rice pudding and a Greek pistachio ice cream/pastry for dessert. Each dish was incredible, and we couldn't wait to come back to eat again later that week. Green Goddess, 307 Exchange Place, French Quarter. Lunch all days 11 a.m.-4 p.m., dinner Thursday-Sunday 5 p.m.-midnight.

The Frenchman Hotel For just $69 a night we were able to book a week at the wonderful Frenchmen Hotel. At 417 Frenchmen St., the hotel was historic, clean, had a pool, and was located in the Faubourg Marigny just across Esplanade street from the French Quarter.

The Frenchmen Hotel

Just across Frenchmen St. from the Frenchmen Hotel is the tasty and affordable Mona's Cafe, a Lebanese restaurant with the best tabouleh, humus, and baba ganuj I've ever eaten. If you go there, make sure to order the Lebanese iced tea with your food. 504 Frenchmen St., open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week, (504) 949-4115.

Courtyard of the Frenchmen Hotel

Budget Travel Oregon: The Painted Hills

2009-09-08T21:46:00.000-07:00

Born in a fiery cloud of ash approximately 33 million years ago, the Painted Hills are a spectacular display of the colors of nature’s palette. A series of low clay hills striped in bands of orange, red, black, green, blue, and lavender, the Painted Hills invite visitors to explore the fragile area with designated hiking trails and interpretive signs.

History The unique colors of the Painted Hills were formed by volcanic eruptions that sent clouds of ash to settle over much of Central Oregon. Over time, layers of ash formed with different mineral compositions, which led to the bands of color seen today.

As the climate in the region changed, the layers of ash were covered by water and formed the bottom of a lake bed. After millennia, the lake eventually dried, and geologic motion in the earth’s crust thrust parts of the lake bed up, allowing wind and rain to begin the process of erosion. Exposed to air and water, the minerals in the volcanic ash oxidized and transformed into the vividly-colored claystone we see today.

Painted Cove Trail

Hiking While the landscape of the Painted Hills is delicate and closed to bushwhacking hikers, several trails allow visitors to see the geology close at hand. The 0.25 mile Painted Cove Trail takes you among low hills of multi-hued claystone, and signs explain in detail the processes that produced the incredible colors. The Overlook Trail (as its name suggests) offers a number of panoramic views of the hills. The 1.5 mile round-trip Carroll Rim Trail is slightly longer and more strenuous, but offers a sweeping view of the entire monument.

Getting There The Painted Hills Unit is 9 miles northwest of Mitchell, OR on a well-marked side road off of Highway 26. From both Eugene and Portland, the Painted Hills are roughly 200 miles and about four hours of driving.

Budget Travel Oregon: Matthieu Lakes and Dee Wright Observatory

2009-08-17T20:26:00.000-07:00

View of North and Middle Sister from South Matthieu Lake Trail

Matthieu Lakes and Dee Wright Observatory Located on Highway 242 about 15 miles west of Sisters, Oregon, the Matthieu Lakes trail takes you through a pine forest bordering lava beds up to two small, idyllic lakes, with spectacular views of the North and Middle Sisters, Mt. Washington, Three-Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Hood along the way. Stop by the Dee Wright Observatory (less than a mile from the Matthieu Lakes trailhead) for panoramic views of the Cascades, and an up-close encounter with the otherworldly landscape of the lava flows.

Mt. Washington, Three-Fingered Jack, and Mt. Jefferson

Matthieu Lakes A six mile loop with an 800 foot elevation gain, the Matthieu Lakes trailhead leaves from the horse camp section of the rustic, no-fee Lava Camp Lake campground. The trail is well-marked with sign posts, and in 0.2 miles joins up with the Pacific Crest Trail. Take a left at the PCT junction, and continue for 0.7 miles to the start of the loop between North and South Matthieu Lake. The bulk of the views of the mountain range are from the South Matthieu Lake portion of the trail; the North Matthieu Lake is at a lower elevation, and that portion of the trail travels through several picturesque meadows with wildflowers. In the middle of August we saw many butterflies, which were drawn by the wildflowers and the moisture in the ground from the seasonal lakes.

South Matthieu Lake and view of the North Sister

No-fee camp sites ring both of the Matthieu Lakes, and they are particularly popular with through-hikers on the PCT. The South Matthieu Lake offers impressive views and fewer sites around the smaller of the two lakes, while the North Matthieu Lake, being larger, has more spaces and somewhat more privacy. Both lakes have plenty of level, sandy ground; however, be sure to pitch your tent only in spots marked specifically for campsites. If you are visiting in the earlier part of the summer, it is best to bring insect repellent, as many seasonal ponds border the hike and the mosquitoes can be a nuisance. Hiking later in August or on windy days can reduce the inconvenience.

Dee Wright Observatory

Dee Wright Observatory The blasted, lunar landscape of the lava flows is best experienced by a stop at the Dee Wright Observatory, a CCC project from 1933-1935. Built entirely out of the area’s volcanic rock, the Observatory sits like a small crenellated castle on top of a low hill of black lava, and the Lava River Interpretive Trail winds around the lava bed for 0.5 miles. Inside the Observatory, holes have been cut through the wall and labeled, identifying specific peaks in the area. While many of the volcanoes in the area are from between 300,000 to 6 million years old, the area has seen extensive volcanic action as recently as 1,500 years ago, when many of the smaller cones and craters erupted. In fact, this region was a literal hotbed of volcanic eruptions between 1000 and 1500 AD, well into the time of human habitation in the area.

The Lava River Interpretive Trail

Getting There To reach both the Dee Wright Observatory and the Matthieu Lakes trailhead, from I-5 south near Eugene, take OR 126/McKenzie River Highway east for approximately 55 miles, and look for OR 242/Old McKenzie River Highway turnoff to the right. This portion (OR 242) of the road is closed seasonally due to snow. Just past the McKenzie Pass, approximately 25 miles along 242, you will see the parking lot and sign for the Dee Wright Observatory on your left. 0.5 miles beyond the Observatory parking lot is the Lava Camp Lake campground and the Matthieu Lakes trailhead. Continuing on OR 242 will bring you to Sisters, Oregon in a short 15 minute drive.

Budget Travel Oregon: Bohemia Mountain

2009-08-04T19:45:00.002-07:00

Indian Paintbrush

Bohemia Mountain in Lane County, Oregon (N 43.574288 and W -122.656999) is a 5840’ peak with a nice hike to an incredible 360-degree view of the Cascade Range. Seasonal wildflower viewing, a nearby ghost town, and all-terrain vehicle trails make a trip to this area even more worthwhile.

To get there, drive south on I-5 from Eugene, taking Exit 174 at Cottage Grove. At the bottom of the exit, take a left on Row River Road. This road will change names several times, but stay on it for about 30 miles. The names will change from Row River to Shoreview, to Government, back to Row River, to County Road 2470, and finally Forest Service Road 22, but simply stay on the main paved path as it heads up along Brice Creek (this creek is a great spot for a quick dip before or after the hike, and there is a nice trail along its banks). At a sign for Fairview Peak, take a right on Rd. 2212. Follow this route roughly 6 miles. As another track joins from the left, stay on the main road, which will veer right. At 8.3 miles you will arrive at Champion Saddle. Take a left onto Road 2460 toward Fairview Peak.

Wild Lily

The road is a little sketchier here, so drive carefully. Although a four-wheel drive truck would be nice, it’s not necessary. We did this trip in a 2009 Toyota Matrix, and it was fine (although we got some strange looks from the off-road enthusiasts in the area!). After about a mile, you will come to a 4-way junction at Bohemia Saddle. Park to the left next to a trail marker for Bohemia Mountain.

The trail is short (less than two miles round-trip), but relatively steep. It was a little too much for our intrepid Chihuahua Missy...

The trail leads up numerous switchbacks with several nice vistas of the surrounding countryside. From late June to mid-August, wildflowers fill the woods and meadows along the trail, and a variety of succulents grow in the rocky areas, with surprising colors and flowers of their own. Toward the end of July, drawn by the profusion of blooms, many species of butterflies visit the forest and add color to the surroundings.

At the summit, make sure not only to explore the area where the trail ends, but also head east through a small forest to the REAL viewpoint, a long ridge of rock that juts east and gives a dramatic view of the Cascade mountains. On a clear day, you can see from Mt. Shasta to Mt. Hood, and all the peaks in between. Also, below you are visible the ghost town of Bohemia City, and the network of roads that lead through the area.

To get to the ghost town, head east from the beginning of the trail (near the parking area), and bushwhack down a small hill to the site. A few buildings remain from the original town, and various mining equipment debris are still strewn around the area.

The area surrounding the mountain became known as the Bohemia Mining District, named after James “Bohemia” Johnson, who discovered gold here first in 1863. By 1866 the town of Bohemia City was established, complete with saloons, hotel, and private residences.
Also in the area is the Musick Guard Station, a two-story cabin that is available for rental through the U.S. Parks Department. Constructed in 1934 by the CCC, this station was built to provide fire support to the Bohemia Mining District. Although there is no water, plumbing, or electricity, a pit toilet and wood stove are located on-site. The cabin is available for reservations from mid-June to mid-October.

Budget Travel Oregon: The Lorane Valley

2009-07-28T12:11:00.000-07:00

Although it was named in 1887 by the postmaster after his favorite niece, the Lorane Valley of Oregon often draws comparison to the Alsace-Lorraine region of France, with its rolling hills covered in vineyards and pastures. Twenty miles to the southwest of Eugene, it is easy to reach the valley from Eugene by taking Bailey Hill Rd. south, which turns into Lorane Highway as it bends to the west.

Early Inhabitants According to an oral history of the coastal Kuitsh and Siuslaw tribes, the Siuslaw had a village in the Lorane valley, where they were able to spend summers hunting elk and deer and gathering edible plants. The influx of European settlers bearing disease and hostile domestic policy during the 17th-19th centuries, along with a series of natural disasters in the same years (an estimated 9.0 earthquake inundated the Pacific Northwest coast on January 26, 1700 with a giant tsunami, and a malaria outbreak in the 1830‘s were among several), combined to destabilize the native communities, and the Lorane-area village was abandoned.

The present-day community of Lorane was founded in 1887 by a group of pioneers, who turned to timber harvesting, farming, livestock raising, and fruit orchards for their subsistence. Lorane was along the original route of the Applegate Trail, which was the southern route of the Oregon Trail, and was first blazed in 1846 to avoid the perils of the Columbia River Gorge along the original Oregon Trail. A dozen or so structures still stand from the early pioneer days of Lorane; for those interested in viewing them, a nice guide with dates of construction and a short historical note is at the following website: http://www.lorane.us/tourlorane.html

Wine Country Oregon has been the site of a growing number of vineyards over the last twenty years, and the Lorane Valley is home to many. While no region of Oregon is nearly the size of Sonoma or Napa, a full day’s wine tastings can be had just in the Lorane Valley alone. Some of the vineyards in the area are listed below:

Iris Hill Winery

Iris Hill’s Lorane Valley Vineyard is dedicated to growing high
quality fruit through sustainable viticulture practices. Tasting room open from noon to 5 p.m. Thursday through Sunday year-round.

541-345-1617
82110 Territorial Road at Iris Hill Lane
Eugene, OR
http://iris-hill.com

King Estate Winery

The winery is styled after a European chateau, and situated on 1,033 acres of organic vineyards, orchards and gardens. Wine tasting is available at its visitor center, and summer hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Shameless plug alert: I loved the delicious 2005 Vin Glace, and the hefty pours in the tasting room!

541-942-9874
80854 Territorial Road
Eugene, OR
www.kingestate.com

Chateau Lorane Winery

The winery’s 200 acre wooded estate overlooks 24 acre private Lake Louise. The tasting room is open daily noon to 5 p.m. June through September, and open weekends noon to 5 p.m. the rest of the year. Picnic facilities and RV parking available. I attended a friend's wedding there a few years ago, and the grounds make for an excellent event rental as well.

541-942-8028
27415 Siuslaw River Road
Lorane, OR
www.chateaulorane.com

Saginaw Vineyards

Owners and wine makers Scott and Cheryl Byler began developing Saginaw Vineyards in 1990, where they produce classic French varietals and farm-fresh fruit wines, including Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Rosé, Marechal Foch, blueberry, and blackberry wines. The tasting room is located in the century-old barn on this historic farmstead – a pleasant place for picnicking and enjoying the country life. Open Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

541-942-1364
80247 Delight Valley School Road
Cottage Grove, OR
www.saginawvineyard.com • saginawvineyard@epud.net

Sylvan Ridge/Hinman Vineyards

One of the earlier crop of wineries in Oregon, Hinman opened its doors in 1979. They feature a wide variety of award-winning white and red wines, and their tasting room is open 12 to 5 p.m. daily, except for Christmas and New Year’s. Located south of Eugene on the way to the Lorane Valley.

1-866-5-SILVAN
27012 Briggs Hill Road
Eugene, OR 97405

Budget Travel Oregon: Phantom Bridge

2009-06-08T09:23:00.001-07:00

Waterfall near Phantom Bridge

Due to a combination of moving and raising a new puppy, my outings have been a bit curtailed over the last month. However, on Sunday I drove up to Detroit Lake with Jason in search of the Phantom Bridge hike, a natural rock arch in the Old Cascades which I've been dying to go to ever since hearing about it 15 years ago.

Phantom Bridge

While the turnoff of Highway 22 was easy to find and the weather was good, we found S.R. #2207 washed out about two miles from the trail head. After some quick mental math, we figured this would tack on another extra four miles to the trip, but decided to give it a shot anyway.

There was no way the Matrix would make it over this

The washout looked small at first, but after clambering over some piles of logs, it quickly became apparent that a large landslide had occurred recently, knocking out a big section of the road and leaving lots of detritus to climb over/around.

After making it over the washout, we climbed two miles up the road with probably a 1,000 foot elevation gain. However, the walk compensated us with views of the surrounding low mountains and lots of flowering indian paintbrush. We hiked up to the trail head past numerous other washouts, and began to suspect that the road had been inaccessible for several years.

Our second setback occurred at the trail head, which was covered in four feet of snow! While we managed to locate the start of the trail after some searching, the derelict signs and overgrown trail confirmed our suspicion that no one had been up here in awhile. There were no human tracks in the snow (although LOTS of cougar poop!), so we were quite possibly the first people up there this season. Flowering trillium, usually a rare occurrence, covered the floor of the woods along the trail, and as soon as we sat down to eat lunch, a camp robber (or gray jay) dropped by to check out the menu.

We hiked for a mile more on the trail, going underneath Dog Rock, a large, crumbling monolith on the top of the ridge. The area around Detroit Lake is a great example of the Western Cascades, which is a landscape whose geology is between 60 - 12 million years old, and differs quite a bit from the much younger volcanoes such as Mt. Hood, The Three Sisters, and Mt. Jefferson, which make up the High Cascades. The Western Cascades are instead an irregular array of ridges and canyons, showing much erosion and bearing no resemblance to their original volcanic forms. In other words, due to erosion and plate movement, areas which are now ridges might have once been low spots between volcanoes, and areas which are now canyons could once have been high volcanic peaks. To illustrate this, we saw lots of sedimentary rock along cuts in the road right on the ridge line we were hiking, and noticed quite a variety of igneous and sedimentary rocks. We turned back on the other side of Dog Rock, right at the view point of Opal Lake, as the snow got deeper and deeper and finally totally obscured the trail. We were still about two miles from the rock arch, and decided to come back in about two months once all the snow had melted, and to make it an overnight backpacking trip due to the "new" length of the hike. It was pretty exciting being the only people up on the mountain, and I can't wait to come back and see the arch this summer!

Getting There Take Highway 22 to Detroit. Immediately west of town, just before you cross the bridge over the Breitenbush River, turn left onto French Creek Rd #2223. Go for 4.1 miles until you come to the fork, and take the right turn onto #2207. In approximately 1.5 miles the road dead ends at the slide area, where you can park and begin the hike. Total roundtrip hike length is approximately 9.4 miles.

Budget Travel Oregon: Sunset Bay and Shore Acres

2009-05-01T09:07:00.000-07:00

Sunset Bay, OR The Oregon coastline is world famous for its stunning scenery, and the area south of Coos Bay is no exception. Erosion and seismic action have created a crumbling, fractured coastline full of geologic interest and curious rock formations.

During the Eocene period approximately 40 million years ago, much of the present coastline of Oregon and Washington was below sea level. A long, semicircular bay reaching from the present-day Puget Sound cut inland across much of the Willamette Valley, and curved back around through parts of the present-day Siskiyous. Present-day Coos Bay was not inundated, and marked the edge of the prehistoric bay. The sandstone and shale cliffs and islands around Sunset Bay and Cape Arago were formed by an ancient delta fed by streams from inland Oregon, which deposited mud and silt along the coast. The floor of this delta then hardened over time and was lifted up by the subduction zone off of the Oregon coast. Part of this bedrock is now visible on the beach of Sunset Bay in the large rock formations that jut up out of the sand.

Coal deposits are a feature of this delta, and are now referred to as the Coaledo Formation, Oregon's largest coal deposits. Coos Bay made much use of this natural resource, opening its first mine in the 1850's. By 1904 approximately 40 coal mines were operating, selling their coal to fuel locomotives. However, once diesel engines became popular in the 1920's, the coal mines declined and closed by the 1940's. Fossilized clams, snails, sand dollars, crabs, logs, and prehistoric plants can be found in the Sunset Bay and Cape Arago cliffs and boulders. The many fault lines that run along this small section of the coast have left their mark on the land.

Erosion in many forms has also carved this landscape: concretions along the Shore Acres observation shelter, wave erosion, honeycomb weathering from salt and algae, and stone-boring marine life. The south side of Sunset Bay reveals evidence of a huge earthquake which struck approximately 1,200 years ago; exposed roots of enormous spruce trees in the intertidal zone show that the coastline dropped rapidly during an earthquake, flooding the forest with salt water. Long before European settlers first spotted Cape Arago in the 1500's on Sir Francis Drake's voyage, the Coos Indians inhabited the area, and retain strong ties to Chief's Island where the decommissioned Cape Arago lighthouse now stands.

Sunset Bay Sunset Bay is a well-appointed campground, and makes a great base from which to explore the rest of the area. Whether you've brought your RV, your tent, or you have reserved a cozy yurt, the campground features a number of pleasant campsites, clean restrooms, and hot showers. Since the campground is set a few hundred yards inland from the beach, it is sheltered from shore winds, and next door to a small golf course. The only word of caution I would mention would be to keep in mind that the campsites are small; if you are looking for privacy and reserving sites online, consider picking the more remote sites, or ones that have no reservations next door. Aside from a squabbling family who left early on our first morning, the campground was fairly peaceful despite it being spring break, and everyone seemed to quiet down soon after dark. The yurts also offer more privacy and act as a better sound barrier than a tent. For more information, go to: http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_100.php

Never trust Oregon weather......

Shore Acres Less than a mile away by road, or two miles by a scenic trail along the top of the cliffs, Shore Acres is a botanical garden and former estate to lumber baron Louis J. Simpson. While his original mansion fell prey to both shore erosion and the depredations of the Great Depression, the grounds have been lovingly restored and turned into a public park. The park is well designed and features different floral displays and plantings throughout the year to take advantage of different blooming periods. To find out more, go to: http://www.shoreacres.net/

Cape Arago Another two miles by trail, or a shorter distance by road, lies Cape Arago, a jutting promontory and state park. With numerous tide pools and colonies of seals and sea lions, the Cape is a great introduction to the marine wildlife in the area. Come and enjoy the vista and watch for spouting whales, but don't forget that parts of the trail are off-limits from March 1-June 30 to protect young seals. http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_94.php

Getting There Take 101 through Coos Bay, and turn right onto Empire Rd before you leave town. Take Empire/Coos Bay Hwy for 2.8 miles, then veer left onto Newmark for 0.5 miles, left again to get onto Cape Arago Hwy, and drive for 8 miles.

Budget Travel Washington: Darrington

2009-04-24T14:18:00.000-07:00

Darrington, Washington Darrington, WA is a small town of 1,500 roughly 75 miles northeast of Seattle, and the perfect gateway to a number of outdoor recreational activities in the area. The Mountain Loop Highway, leaving downtown Darrington, is a great way to access dozens of trailheads, including spots to hike up to glaciers, camp, and mountaineer. Options are available for those interested in mountain biking, kayaking, fishing, and hunting as well.

Both the Darrington Ranger Station and the Sauk River Trading Post (each in downtown Darrington) have plenty of information for specific trail conditions and directions.

Nestled in a valley with elevation 550’, Darrington is surrounded by farmland and forest, and ringed by 6,000’ high peaks. Home to a summer bluegrass festival, the area boasts a number of horse ranches, organic farms, and a weekly farmer's market. For visitor information, a great place to start is: http://darringtonwa।org/

I stayed in Darrington for six weeks while working as a cadastral surveying aid, and it was a pleasant experience, in no small way because the land we were surveying was flat! The local organic bakery serves a mean Greek pizza, the grocery store there is well-stocked (you quickly learn what it's like to be at the mercy of local convenience stores while living on the road and cooking out of a microwave for months on end), and there is a nearby Catholic shrine for the religious or inquisitive. I stayed at the Stagecoach Inn, which was clean and run by one of the nicest managers I've ever met. Each room has a balcony and overlooks a central garden, which is full of flowers all summer long.

Surveying in the area had a number of fun highlights, including walking across sketchy-looking beaver dams and avoiding quick sand in the river beds. However, since our job was cadastral surveying, we walked cross-country and did not have trails to follow. The hiking in the area is truly gorgeous, as are the wildflowers and the countryside, and I strongly recommend a 1-2 week camping trip at one of the campgrounds in the area as a way to explore the myriad hiking trails.

Getting There From Seattle, head north on I-5 for 43 miles. Take exit 208 Arlington/ Darrington, and take a right on W-530 at the end of the ramp. After 4 miles, pass through Arlington and stay on W-530 for another 28 miles, at which point you will be in Darrington.

Budget Travel Oregon: Opal Creek

2009-04-12T22:05:00.000-07:00

Opal Creek, Oregon Opal Creek is a 35,000+ acre Wilderness and Scenic area, and has stands of old-growth timber and many hiking trails. Jawbone Flats, once a summer camp for Santiam Kalapuya Indians, then a lead, copper, silver, and zinc mine in the 1930's, is now the off-grid Opal Creek Ancient Forest Center, a 3 mile hike from the main Opal Creek trail head.

Opal Creek is adjacent to the Bull of the Woods Wilderness area, and together they have a number of hikes and backpacking trip routes to choose from. Opal Creek has two main hiking trails: a 7 mile round-trip hike (200 ft. elevation gain) from the trail head to the Opal Pool, and a longer 10.4 mile (500 ft. elevation gain) round-trip hike to Beachie Creek. Both trails involve walking up 2 miles of a gravel road through stands of old-growth and second-growth timber, and pass the Merten Mill, a Depression-era sawmill with rusting machinery, some of it salvaged from the USS Oregon. The Beachie Creek trail forks 0.2 miles after the mill at a foot bridge, and continues on a seperate trail. The Opal Pool trail continues past the mill for another mile, where it enters Jawbone Flats. 0.2 miles beyond Jawbone Flats is the sign for the Opal Pool and gorge viewpoint.

Jawbone Flats As previously mentioned, Jawbone Flats is an old mining camp now home to a research center for old-growth forests. The collection of wooden buildings is powered by solar and water power, and the small community takes pride in its ecological health. In fact, there are numerous signs posted testifying to its recycling and composting methods, complete with admonitory warnings should visitors wish to do otherwise. While it is nice to be able to read about how the Jawbone Flats residents get their hydro-power, the overall effect is one of a zoo exhibit, with the zoo inhabitants being a bunch of grouchy environmentalists. Plus, there's an awful lot of smoke from wood-burning stoves hanging in the air for the carbon-neutral-er-than-thou atmosphere otherwise present. Still, it's a nice place to stay for the weekend in order to explore the extensive hiking of Opal Creek and the nearby Bull of the Woods area, and you can rent cabins with various rates and amenities at http://www.opalcreek.org/index.html

Getting There Take Highway 22 from Salem to Mehama (approximately 23 miles east of Salem). Take a left on the North Fork Rd SE, across from the Swiss Village Restaurant. Drive 16.3 miles to State Road 2209, keeping left on the forks. Drive 2209 to the locked gate and park in the parking lot.

Budget Travel Oregon: Henline Mountain

2009-04-06T22:51:00.001-07:00

We went on a hike up the Henline Mountain trail last weekend. Unfortunately, we only made it a couple of miles up the trail, as the snow was quite deep still. There were several spots along the way that offered some pretty views, and the weather was absolutely beautiful (sunny and 75 degrees!).

This trail is part of the Opal Creek Wilderness and Recreation area, and there are numerous trails nearby (the next trip will be to explore more of them). This is about a 30-minute drive from Salem along Highway 22. Take a left on North Fork Rd across from the Swiss Village restaurant, and keep going, following the signs and staying to the left when you come to two forks in the road. The road follows the Santiam river, and offers many views of low waterfalls along the way.

First viewpoint on the trail.

It's easy to forget that there is some amazing scenery on the outskirts of Salem. You can get onto Highway 22 from the south end of Lancaster Drive. In just a few minutes, you have left the strip malls of Lancaster Drive behind as you drive through farmland and pass the exit to Silver Creek Falls, the largest state park in Oregon. A few minutes later, your elevation has started to rise, and you are soon driving among the dry Douglas Fir forests of the Cascade foothills. Highway 22 (the Santiam Highway) takes you past Detroit Dam and Detroit Lake, winds through the Cascades, and shows stunning vistas of Mt. Washington before it passes through Sisters, OR.

Budget Travel Oregon: Christmas Valley and Fossil Lake

2009-04-03T13:33:00.000-07:00

Sunrise (4:30 AM) over Christmas Lake.
The view is from my motel room.

Christmas Valley

Christmas Valley, a small town about two hours southeast of Bend, OR, is a great jumping-off point for several day trips in the area. Local attractions all within an hour driving time (but usually much less) include climbing on and around Fort Rock, walking through the geological oddities of Crack-in-the-Ground and Hole-in-the-Ground, exploring Derrick Cave and the Lost Forest, and climbing on or riding an ATV through the nearby sand dunes.

A four-wheel-drive vehicle is not required, but certainly would be handy in accessing the more remote attractions such as Lost Forest and the further reaches of the sand dunes; for Derrick Cave it is a must. In addition, the town of Christmas Valley has a small 9-hole golf course next to a Christmas Lake, with several inexpensive motels nearby.

Fossil Lake Christmas Valley is situated on the same high desert plateau as Bend, OR, and shares some of the same features, including lowland vegetation of sagebrush and upland vegetation of lodgepole pine and juniper. Much of the valley floor is the old lake bed of an ice-age lake now called Fossil Lake, and it is thickly littered with fossils from the many animals that inhabited the area between 10,000 and 2 million years ago. Exotic as it may sound to us now, flamingos, mastodons, horses, salmon, camels, sloths, and many other creatures once inhabited the shallows and roamed the edges of a vast prehistoric lake that gradually dried up after the last ice age. Fossil Lake is now a 6,550 acre area that is closed to vehicles but open to foot travelers, and you are welcome to walk the flats and dunes to see evidence of the former marine environment, such as ant hills made entirely out of fossilized snail shells, and fossilized salmon vertabrae at the top of a 60-foot high sand dune. Please abide by the federal laws regarding fossil
evidence (don't move it, and don't take it home!).

Fort Rock Born some 5 to 6 million years ago in a geyser of red hot magma and steam, created as basalt magma hit the water in the prehistoric lake bed, Fort Rock began life as a rain of volcanic ash that settled to the ground and became a volcanic atoll some 325 feet high in the middle of prehistoric Fossil Lake. Gradually the action of the lake waves carved away the south side of the atoll, and made caves in the extant sides.

Fast-forward ahead to the end of the last ice age and the dawn of early human history in Oregon. 13,000 years ago, Fossil Lake was a 1,500-square-mile lake, in places up to 250 feet deep. Human inhabitants, likely drawn to the animal life around the drying lake, moved into Fort Rock Cave and several other caves in geologic monoliths in the area. In an exciting find in 1938, a University of Oregon scientist named Luther S. Cressman found 75 human sandals which have been dated to be between 10,500 and 9,200 years old.

Fort Rock: Site of Nike Predecessor?

Crack-in-the-Ground Formed by a collapsed lava tunnel, Crack-in-the-Ground is a bizarre 70-foot-deep, umm, crack in the ground through which it's possible to walk for approximately a mile. This was our favorite attraction of the trip. To the right of the trail head, the path extends about a mile through the cleft, and this path is easily accessible by most people. For a more exciting scramble, go to the left of the trail head and climb over the enormous boulders jumbled above some deep holes in the ground. You can also walk along the rim of this half of the attraction for about a mile, and see some other interesting lava phenomena from this vantage point.

Getting There From Bend, drive 29 miles south on Highway 97. Beyond LaPine, turn left at a "Silver Lake" pointer for 29.2 miles on Highway 31, and then turn left a a "Fort Rock" sign for 6.5 miles. Turn left again just beyond the Fort Rock store, following signs 1.7 paved miles to Fort Rock State Park. To get to Christmas Valley, ignore the last turn off to Fort Rock State Park, and continue on County Road 5-14/Christmas Valley/Wagontire Road for approximately 45 minutes. Signs for Christmas Valley are well marked. Accomodations include an RV park at Fort Rock State Park, motels in Christmas Valley, and an attractive rustic campground with 3 campsites with reasonable pit toilets at Green Mountain campground. If I were to go again, I would choose the Green Mountain campground, as the views are lovely and the location private.